Quick facts;-
;- You will need a special permit for the restricted area of Naar-Phu. This can be arranged in Kathmandu or Pokhara through an agency. We tried to obtain the permit ourselves, but were refused by the authorities. The permit is US$90 each, and you'll need a passport photo as well.
;- By law, you must have a registered Nepalese guide with you in the restricted area, permits will not be issued without the guides details, so you can't just pick up a guide along the way.
;- The permit is for 7 days, you can extend it at the time of application, but it's expensive. It will be checked at Koto before you go in and is meant to be checked when you come out. If you come out via Koto it will defiantly be checked and more than likely be checked at Humde if you come out via the Kangla Pass.
;- Carrying a tent is no longer a must do, but it's still advisable in case of bad weather and if you intend to stay at Kangla Phedi. You will need to carry your own water and/or purification tablets. There are streams to refill, but the water will need to be treated.
:- Food is now available all along the trail to Phu, but emergency supplies are recommended in case you get stuck on the trail. Also bring the usual food you would take on a full day trek, that way you'll have your own snacks and lunch. Food prices increase as you go further on the trail, remember that most goods have to be carried in by porters or pack animals.
;- Bring your own sleeping bag and warm clothes. It'll start off warmish in Koto, but by the end of the first day, you'll notice the temperature drop. There is no where to purchase clothes or extra items once you leave Koto. Remember you're no longer on the Annapurna Circuit, it's dramatically more remote, so be prepared.
;- There is no cell phone reception in the valley all the way to Phu. You'll get some reception in Naar, but it will depend on your network and phone. There is a satellite phone in Phu, but just for emergencies. Absolutely no internet in Phu of course.
;- Be aware that the trail is very narrow for most of the way and pack teams of ponies and mules are very common. These teams have the right of way (ALWAYS!) and are not tethered, so they will push past you. The golden rule is to always move to the high side of the path and wait until they have all passed. If you stand on the down side of the path it's likely that you will be pushed off the edge. Every year people are killed or injured doing this. Be aware and make sure all your team are aware of the danger and the protocols.
Please note;- We trekked to Phu and spent extra time there, we then returned by the same route, not going to Naar or through the Kangla Pass (information about Naar and the pass is based on what I was told while we were in the region)
DAY 1 - KOTO (2600m)/CHAME(2670m) to SINGENGE DHARMASALA(3230m) - 6 hours
Most people leave from Koto, this is where you'll get you permit checked and the trail starts next to the checkpoint. My advise is to sleep in Chame, it's only about half an hour past Koto, further up the circuit. Chame is much bigger than Koto, so you'll have a better choice of accommodation and there are plenty of shops carrying everything that you forgot to get beforehand. There is also a small pharmacy, police station, good wifi etc. So after a break in Chame, it's back down hill to Koto and off you go on the trail to Phu.
The path from Koto is clearly defined and is not too steep. After about 2 1/2 hours you'll reach Naar Phu Khola (2980m), there are now a number of new teahouses along here, there fairly basic, but very welcoming, clean and a great place for a cup of tea. There is also basic accommodation here (you might just end up sleeping in your sleeping bag on the floor here). Another hour along, you'll come to Chhauchha, there is a lovely new teahouse here, very nice couple running the place and a great place for lunch. The views from the teahouse look back up the valley, fantastic.
After another 2 1/2 hours you'll reach Singenge Dharmasala (3230m). Some guidebooks say to push on to Meta, but at 3560m, I think it's too much altitude for one day, also the path from Singenge to Meta is very steep and climbs another 330m, not much fun to be doing at the end of the day. Once again, I stress that I think the 1000m climb in one day is risky, and does not comply with recommendations regarding avoiding altitude sickness.
At Singenge, you'll find a new ACAP stone hut, it's quite spacious, has a wooden floor and a new tin roof. We slept here with no problems, but you'll have to make do for toilets. A couple of ladies come down each day from Meta and make basic food and serve drinks in a nearby shelter. Try and support them, as it's their only income and they are really trying to offer a service to trekkers. You'll thank them for the hot tea and food, if you arrive cold and tired.
DAY 2 - SINGENGE DHARMASALA (3230m) to CHYAKO (3720m) - 4 hours
Shortly after starting the day (about 30 minutes in) you come to a steep zig zag path that climbs well over 200m, take your time, it's a steep, long climb, it's then only a gentle climb to Meta (3560m). There are now two teahouses here, one is brand new and has comfortable rooms (perfect for the return trip) and is a great place to stop for a meal and a drink, there is nothing between here and Chyako, so it's worth the break. Also there is a checkpoint in Meta, so be sure to get your permits stamped. Shortly after leaving Meta you'll see the signpost for Naar, and you'll see the tiny settlement of Naar Phedi across the gorge (you'll stay here on your trip to Naar). Two hours from Meta brings you to Junam Goth (3690m), some guides list this as an ideal campsite, but I recommend either Meta or Chyako. Junam is windswept and there is nothing really here but ruins and some seasonal huts used by shepherds. I don't think there is water here either.
Another 30 minutes brings you to Chyako (3720m), this used to also be an abandoned/seasonal settlement, but now there are two teahouses, The one higher up is preferable, it's clean and new and the woman who owns it is very accommodating and a great cook! While there is no actual accommodation, she let us sleep on the floor in the dinning room, it's worth asking, otherwise you'll have to use your tent. There are toilet and water here (you'll still need to treat the water of course). Recharge you energy, it's a big day tomorrow!
DAY 3 - CHYAKO (3720m) to PHU (4100m) - 4 hours
Get an early start on the day, it's best to get to Phu early if you can, that way you'll be able to make the most of the day. The first part of the day is fairly easy, a few ups and downs, but its not too hard until just before Kyang where it's a steep zig zag climb to the settlement. It'll take about 1 1/2 hours to reach Kyang from Chyako. Kyang (3850m) sits in a lovely step, with old abandoned terraced fields. The place is pretty much a collection of ruins and seasonal shepherds huts. There is a tiny hut that makes tea and basic food, they also have other drinks (Coke, Sprite, beer etc). It's not a 24 hour place, the people who run it come down from Phu each morning, so be prepared for it to be closed. If it's open, you can leave excess baggage here until you return, there is only a very small fee and your stuff will be locked up safely. We decided to consolidate our two packs into one and leave the other here. Best thing we ever did!
On the far side of Kyang, the path cuts through the cliff face and the real adventure begins.The path is now quite narrow and I think the most dangerous of the the whole trail to Phu, be careful and watch your step. After about 30 minutes, you'll come to a newly built memorial to the three Canadian trekkers who died in an avalanche in 2014, it's a sobering reminder of the risks we all take in this region. Two hours from Kyang, you'll descend to the river and the valley opens up a bit. There are some ruined huts and rock animal pens. This is a good spot to stop for lunch, especially if the weather is not too good, as you'll find some shelter among the rock walls.
The valley becomes increasingly desolate and the feeling of remoteness is quite strong. about two hours after the ruins brings you to a long and very steep zig zag path, at the top is the ancient entrance gate to the Phu Valley. It's quite a climb, so take your time, the good news is that from here it's pretty much down hill all the way to Phu, which is only about 40 minutes away...YAY!
Just before Phu there is a long swing bridge that crosses the Phu River, before crossing the bridge, directly ahead is the ACAP campsite, if you don't intend staying at a teahouse or they are all full, then this is the best place to set up camp.
To reach Phu, cross the swing bridge and it's only a minute and your in Phu. The number of Teahouses is increasing, In October 2015 there were four teahouses to choose from, all very basic and fairly decrepit. There were at least two more being built, both looked very nice and well laid out. All of them (including the new ones) are quite small, so there is limited accommodation, but the number of trekkers is limited, so you should be able to find accommodation. Of the four currently open teahouses, I'd recommend the very first one in the village, just across the stream. It's the first building you come to and it also houses the emergency satellite phone. The rooms are basic but clean, they supply extra bedding for cold nights and the food is good, the owners also speak English.
As you'll probably arrive mid-afternoon , it's a great opportunity to get your bearings and have a bit of an explore of the village......the rest can wait until tomorrow.
DAY 4 - PHU (4100m) - exploration day
Some itineraries have you leaving Phu today, this makes no sense, you've walked so far to get here, spend some time and enjoy this amazing place and it's stunning surroundings. There is no fixed way to see the place, but this is how we did it. We dedicated the morning wandering around the narrow streets (just walkways really). Every twist and turn offers a fascinating glimpse into a now almost lost way of living, no cars, motorbikes, TV, phones, fridges or any of the other things we take for granted. Remember that until 2002, this places was totally closed to westerners. In the center of the village, sitting highest of all is the ruined remains of the village's largest building, it looks like it might have been a palace of sorts once upon a time, now burnt out and being used as a source of building materials. To the west of the village the hill rises steeply, it's worth climbing the terraces to a vantage point above the satellite phone dish, up here you'll get a great view of all of Phu and it's surroundings, an ideal photo opportunity. That'll take you through to lunch.
Across the stream on the northern side of Phu is the Buddhist monastery Tashi Gompa, it sits high on the hill, much higher than Phu. It's very old, I assume as old as Phu itself and well worth the climb, it's a long steep zig zag path, it look daunting, but take some water and give it some time. Usually, at least one of the nuns or maybe even the Lama will be in residence. You can visit the shrine and pay your respects. A donation is not asked for, but it traditional to leave some notes in the donation box. Further up the hill, on it's peak is an ancient chorten, climb to the top for the most amazing views, your now at about 4200m and you'll be rewarded with true 360 degree views. Down low in the valley is Phu, to the north and east is Tibet (beyond Himlung Mountain 7126m), all around you are snow capped mountains and sweeping valleys. looking up the Phu River valley you can see the rocks and scree left by Pangri Glacier, which is just out of sight. This is a great spot to sit in peace for awhile and reflect on where you are.
If you have time (or want to spend another day in Phu) you can hire a local guide to take you to Himlung Base Camp and the Pangri Glacier, it's only about 2 hours each way and well worth a visit.
DAY 4 - PHU to META or PHU to NAAR PHEDI - 6 hours either route
Get an early start, either route is a long, but relatively easy day. Depending on how much time you have, your further plans, how your coping with altitude etc, you may decide to come back out the way you came in (which is what we did) or do the more standard loop and leave via Naar and the KangLa Pass and continue on the Annapurna Circuit.
Most of the first day back out follows the same route. So it's back down along the same path you came in on. It's much easier coming out for a couple of reasons, obviously there is a lot more down hill than up (great!!!!) and with each step the oxygen levels start to increase, so you get a noticeable increase in energy. I found this significant and it made the trip out relatively easy.
The first stop is Kyang which is about 2 1/2 hours and is mainly down hill or flat. It's perfect for a morning tea stop, and then it's on to Chyako. The return between Kyang and Chyako is quite a lot of up and down so it's not much different to the way it was on the way up. Chyako is the ideal lunch stop and really breaks the day up.
If your heading straight out then it's on to Meta (about 2 hours) and a night at one of the teahouses and the end to an easy day.
If you are planing to head to Naar then some guide books list Junam Goth as the campsite, people we spoke to were going on to Naar Phedi. Here you should get some basic accommodation and food, it's about 1 1/2 hours from Chyako and an easy hike.
DAY 5 - META to KOTO (6 hours) or NAAR PHEDI to NAAR (4110m) (3 hours)
The trek out from Meta to Koto is pretty uneventful and mainly downhill. It's a longish day, but with stops at Singenge Dharamshala and Cahauchha for drinks and food, it's makes a lovely day with time to enjoy some of the sights you missed on the way up. You'll get into Koto early afternoon and your adventure is done. This was what we did and it was perfect for us, as we needed to get back to Kathmandu....next time I'm keen to visit Naar and come out via the pass.
If you are planing on the more standard trek and visiting Naar then you have a short day and will have plenty of time in Naar on this day. From Naar Phedi it's a long and very steep climb up the hill to the chorten at 3690m. From here the path becomes easier and after two hours you'll reach a large chorten (4090m), it's then an easy 1 hour walk into Naar. Naar is much larger than Phu and has phone reception, shops and lots more teahouse with accommodation. You could easily spend an extra night here and explore the area.
DAY 6 - NAAR (4110m) - KANGLA PHEDI (4530m) - 2 1/2 hours
The main reason for a short trek today is you can't push past this because of altitude. There is a good ACAP campsite here and it's fairly protected. Some guides push on to the glacial lake so the following day is easier, but I think it's far too high from Naar (4110m), it's at 5245m and well out of safe recommendations. There is also no true campsite at the lake and it's exposed.
DAY 7 - KANGLA PHEDI (4530m) - NAWAL (3660m) - 8 hours
A very long, but rewarding day. Local guides have advised me that you will need a very early start, Take the advise of your guide and and local advise about the current conditions from people in Naar very seriously. Crossing the pass is not to be taken lightly. From Kangla Phedi it's about 4 hours to the pass, your now at 5306m, the highest point on the trek. Coming out the other side you'll be rewarded with spectacular views to the south, some say these are the best views of the Annapurna Circuit, many of the major peaks are viable on a clear day. The next 2 hours are very tough, it's a steep decent of 1000m down loose gravel, be very careful on this section, loosing your balance is a real possibility, trekking poles are advised. Once off the gravel it's then a steep, but manageable path down to Nawal, this should take another 2 hours. From Nawal your pretty much back on the Annapurna Circuit.
In conclusion, this is an amazing trek, no matter which way you do it. You'll see stunning scenery, visit places that few people have every seen, feel a million miles from the hordes of trekkers on the Annapurna Circuit and get to vist villages that are as close to untouched as you are likely to find.
I'm happy to answer any questions regarding the trek or feel free to advise me of incorrect information or updates.
RECOMMENDED READING
Trekking The Annapurna Circuit by Andrees de Ruiter & Prem Rai (new fully updated edition due in mid 2016) the guys were walking the trail at the same time as me. A very detailed and easy to read guide, a must have.
Nepal Trekking and the Great Himalaya Trail by Robin Boustead - 2015. A vital guide book for any trek in Nepal, good details about Naar Phu region and lots of handy trekking info.
Lonely Planet;- Trekking In The Nepal Himalaya. Lots of practical trekking information. The section on Naar Phu is very detailed and helpful, but I think their itinerary is a bit out, too much altitude per day. Still worth having.
Lonely Planet;- Trekking In The Nepal Himalaya. Lots of practical trekking information. The section on Naar Phu is very detailed and helpful, but I think their itinerary is a bit out, too much altitude per day. Still worth having.
THE ONLY DECENT MAP
Naar Phu - The Lost Valleys by Robin Boustead. 1:60,000 - Nepa Maps, Nepal. This is a fantastic and hugely detailed map by Robin and I think you'd be crazy to do the trek without it. You can pick it up at a book shop in Kathmandu for 750npr (about $1). BUY A COPY!!!!
