Day 5 :- Permit please.

Yesterday arvo we spent a bit of time inquiring into getting permits for our trek. Not as simple as you would think, but we were assured by one agency that if we came back in the morning, all would be sorted. So after breakfast this morning we popped in...all closed. While we waited, we did the rounds of the endless trekking supply shops to pick up a few last minute items. Bargain hard and know your prices, it's the only way to get a good deal. Then back to the agency, got put off again, had a drink, went back...closed! So back to the hunt, got told by a number of agencies that they could not process a Nar-Phu Restricted Area permit, but if we went to the Tourist Office across town, they would issue a Annapurna permit and we could then go to the Department of Immigration for the Nar-Phu permit.

So time to regroup at New Orleans cafe over a cold Coke. While sitting the I was interviewed by a Nepali film crew for a YouTube series on visitors to Nepal. Great bunch of guys trying to get the tourists back after the earthquake. We had lunch at another cafe (New Orleans conserving it's dwindling gas suppy) and resolved to try and get our own permits...fun, fun, fun.

So off we headed on a 'walking tour' of the 'real' Khatmandu. We eventually found the Tourist Board office, and after being directed through three different officials, we were told that there was no point in getting the Annapurna permit until we had the Nar-Phu permit!!!!! So the official (polite and helpful) gave us directions to the Department of Immigration and our walking tour continued!

Rani Pokhari Shiva Temple

Eventually we found the building, hidden down a side street and were shown into a file filled room, where an official confirmed our worst fears....it had all been in vain, he could not issue us permits and they could only be done through an agency. Back to square one.

No more walking, we flagged a taxi and headed back to Thamel, beaten my the system. Where is Kafka when you need him. The taxi driver was a lot of fun, joking as he weaved in and out of the pedestrians. He was telling us that fuel was now so scarce that on the black market that he had to pay 500nrp per litre and even at that price, it's almost impossible to find. He only agreed to a cheap fare from us, because once back in Thamel, he hoped to get a rich tourist fare out again.

Back in Thamel, we revisited an agent I had worked with before, and after more bargaining settled on US$155 each. So hopefully it'll all work out.