Day 9 Tal to Bagarchhap - villages, mountains and mules

A great night's sleep in Tal and up it was up early for breakfast and then on our way. Surprisingly, given how remote we are, things are not too expensive, for a double room with hot shower, dinner for both of us (so much it was hard to eat it all), drinks including beer and a nice breakfast the following morning, it cost  $40.

Our hotel kitchen

Tal main street

Safe water station

Leaving Tal

Hitting the road early, we were soon leaving Tal behind and back on steps, climbing out of the river flat. At this point the river is flanked by sheer cliffs and the path as been blasted straight from the rock face. It's about a meter wide with rock above your head. The outer edge is very high above the swirling river, so it's best not to look down too much. This pathway ends at another swing bridge which we crossed  and were soon back on the little jeep track.

Cliff path

Swing bridge with locals carrying wood

Along the way, we passed through a number of pretty little villages. In these villages, a smile goes along way, and is returned with a smile, a nod, a hello or nameste. Sometimes there is some English words exchanged. Occasionally, we pass or are passed by other trekkers, sometimes you'll get a hello returned, sometimes a bit of conversation about the trek, but many are pushing hard and barely have air for walking, let alone pleasantries. At the village of Karte (1850m), we crossed another swing bridge and entered the tiny village, quite something, but empty of people. While we took a break, a Frenchman emerged from a side lane, covered in seed pods and thistles. It transpired that he had missed the path and ended up on a long abandoned pathway, now mostly destroyed by landslides. He said it was terrifying and was lucky not to be killed. Lille thought the guy had been very foolish.

Swing bridge to Karte

Swing bridge to Dharapani

It's a Nepali dogs life

The path again hugged the river edge and then crossed the swing bridge again, back to the jeep track. At Dharapani we stopped for lunch, a great place in a huge sweeping valley. This was the furthest spot that Jules reached after the earthquake before being forced to turn back. After lunch, we passed a stable yard full of mules getting ready for a pack train. 

Our hotel in Bagarchhap

Lunch in Dharapani

The walk onto Bagarchhap (2160m) was pretty uneventful. We chose a teahouse at the far end, it looked a bit like Nepal meets Switzerland, but comfy enough.