Interlude:- namaste = hello goodbye

After five days in the country, it's time for a quick reflection on the people, the street life, food and the general vibe.

My take on the Khatmandu people I've met (based on five days) is that they are very relaxed, get on with life, despite huge economic and social upheavals. It's amazing that little more than five months ago, the capital (and the rest of the country) was devastated by it's greatest earthquake in modern times. The nation has pulled itself together, cleaned up the rubble and got on with it's daily life. Despite the huge loss of life, the massive devastation to people's homes, historic buildings, places of great spiritual significance, people have gotten on with their lives, started to rebuild and made do with what they have. There is always a smile, never a curse or angry word and mostly people will help where possible.

Amazing Nepali jazz band at New Orleans Cafe Bar

Begging and street hawkers are not as common as I expected, and for the most part and friendly refusal is all it take to end the attention. The most common street hawker goods of trade are:-

- Tiger balm (no tigers were harmed in it's making)
- Flutes (never sound as good at home)
- Nepali violin (same as above)
- Trekking guides (they would have trouble finding their home)
- Something smoke (I think you know what that means!)
And of course rickshaw and taxi rides (somewhat useful)

It's all very easy and lighthearted, you NEVER fell threatened and it's all part of the fun.

Once you leave the tourist hub of Thamel, the street 'characters' disappear and the real street life of Khatmandu kicks in. Housewives rushing about their business getting the mornings shopping, delivery men with loads on their backs, children off to school in crisps uniforms, street sweepers ( the streets are surprisingly clean), monks and holy men making their offerings and street sellers, always street sellers.

Between the tiny pocket sized shops (mostly smaller than a bathroom) and those that sell from a slice of the street, everything is for sale. Butchers with huge hunks of meat on benches, exposed to the elements. Miniscule electrical stores, selling double adaptors and globes. Lolly and sweet shops with impossibly coloured confections. Barbers with out of date styles decorating the walls. Cordial sellers, liquid delete from 140 year old bottles. And at every turn fabulously coloured women's clothinf, hanging from the shutters of endless shop fronts.

Peppered through this hive of commerce are an endless array of one-person food stalls, selling all sorts of the familiar and strange. Dumplings, doughnuts, popcorn, popped rice, savoury tidbits etc. There are a surprising number of food choices in Thamel, the whole world of food on offer, a hard place to lose weight even if you try.